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Puppy Care
BRINGING
A NEW PUPPY HOME
On returning home with your new puppy, it will probably be on its very best behavior at first. As a new owner, you will be so anxious to make it happy that you may be accepting more or less anything it chooses to do. However, once this initial honeymoon period is over, you may uncover a few problems. Generally speaking, these are not difficult to put right and your puppy will be happier for it. Do not succumb to the temptation of showing it off to all your family and friends immediately. Remember the puppy is very young and has just lost its mother and playmates.
The puppy's new surroundings are strange, there are new noises, its bedding is different, everything smells strange and its nose is very sensitive. It has probably been in a car for the first extended time in its life and it may have even been sick, in which case, give it a small drink of water. It may even refuse food for a while, though this would be rare for most Doberman puppies.
Even though it has been registered with a kennel name, if you have not already done so, it would be wise to now decide on its permanent name. Talk to it reassuringly, and in a quiet, gentle voice. If it is to be a housedog, let it sit on its bed beside you. Allow it to wander around and take its bearings. Let it come to you when it is ready and do not fuss over it and hug him. The puppy will soon decide that you are its lord and master. Never lose your temper with your puppy or punish it physically. Ask your vet for advice on any behavior you are worried about, rather than allow bad habits to become established problems that will inevitably take longer for you to remedy.
HOW
TO PICK UP A DOBERMAN PUPPY
It
is important to learn how to pick up a Doberman puppy correctly. It
must
never be picked up by the scruff of the neck or, worse still, by the neck.
Never
pick a puppy up under the shoulders (as you would a small child). Always
lift the dog up gently with both hands, with one hand placed under its
chest, the other supporting the hindquarter. In
other words
support its
rear end with one hand and have the other hand firmly between its
front legs. Take great care not to poke a finger into its
soft
stomach. Later, when the puppy becomes larger and heavier, it
can be held
with one arm completely round its
brisket at the top of the forelegs, with
the other arm round its
thighs.
TRAINING
A
Doberman must be taught discipline with kindness from his earliest
days. There is probably no breed of dog who, when trained, will repay its
owner with greater alertness, intelligence, courage, loyalty, obedience and
utter fearlessness. It is also a splendid watchdog and will guard its owner’s life, family and property to the bitter end. The Doberman
is also one of the fastest breeds of dog. He is a dog of enormous
character and is excellent with children with only its size and strength being
possible disadvantages. It does not like intruders and therefore makes an
extremely good burglar alarm.
A
Doberman puppy at three weeks is utterly amenable and can be trained with
the greatest of ease to stand in a show pose. But as it gets older it will
become more difficult as it generally realizes its strength and intelligence. By the time that
it is seven to eight months old it will be
embarking on its rebellious “teenage” stage. This is the time that
requires real training, with eight to twelve months of age being its most difficult period. It's when they are at this stage when there is most
likely to be a clash of wills and they become extremely stubborn. At this
age, it is
essential that they know who is boss and the owner must have adequate time to cope with his Doberman. By the time
the dog is a year old, it is essential that its master already be in
complete command.
There
is probably no more devoted, loyal, or intelligent dog than the trained
Doberman. Intelligent ‘working’ breeds tends to be demanding of their owners’ time and attention. This is because these dogs were originally developed to be highly interactive with their owners and physically capable of always being ready to work, so they need plenty of exercise.
It
will be devoted to his family and the family, without
knowing it, will in actual fact be completely owned by their Doberman!
It
is extremely easy to house train a Doberman using newspaper. Gradually move the paper towards the door
near to wherever you wish it to learn to relieve himself. If this is to
be the garden, move the paper nearer and nearer the door, until it is
outside. By then it will know what is expected of him. From the very first
days let it out into the garden every hour, gradually extending the time
to every two hours, and then to every three hours. Take it outside
immediately after each meal. Praise it when it has done what is required
and, if there is an accident, immediately admonish it gently, making
sure that it realizes it has sinned. Do not call it in the middle of the
act in the wrong place, as it will then undoubtedly waddle towards you
leaving a large watery trail behind it.
Dogs are living creatures and not just gifts that need no maintenance. Though a little puppy can bring so much laughter and happiness, they do require a great deal of training and when that happens, it
may not always be a fun thing to do. Expect work if you want to train your
puppy well.
They are a lot like human beings and also have a temperament. In order to train your dog puppy
correctly, you should bear in mind Dobermans are are born with natural instincts to love and protect their human companions.
This
great dog was bred as a Working Dog and it
likes to work as its
ancestors did. It
is always happiest when working and it
is certainly a dog to be truly proud
of.
Training takes time, so do not be unduly worried as it often takes a couple of weeks before it learns
the basics of obedience. What you need is a little bit of patience. You do not have to spend hours
every day to train your puppy as it only takes a few minutes each day over
time.
The very first task to train dog puppy is its obedience in simple commands like come, sit, heel, stay and fetch. These are easy to follow and most puppies are able to learn that quite fast. As they grow older and bigger, you can move on to include more advanced commands like rolling over, pawing and even play dead. One thing good about training
your puppy is they are very open towards learning. They are like blank pieces of paper ready to be written on. So training a puppy can be quite a fun experience especially when it starts responding to you.
Like kids, what they learn in their initial growing up months will be engrained in their memories.
A puppy dog training for obedience will also shape their behaviors later. All it takes is a simple rule, stick with the few minutes per session routine and keep repeating as a reminder.
Training for obedience is so important as untrained puppies can be rather mischievous. Since they are young, during their teething stage, they develop a natural chewing behavior. This can be quite damaging for your furniture as the holes they leave can be numerous in numbers. It is good to therefore start training puppies early so that they learn to differentiate what is wrong and what is right behavior.
You may want to resort to using dog training devices or products to aid puppy training but this is really not that essential. A little bit more practicing and repeating the simple commands everyday would go a long way. The whole puppy training takes approximately a few months. Yes it may seem tough but the rewards would be great. At the end of the training, your puppy would grow up to be a loving and obedient dog that makes a great companion.
Here are a few myths regarding training:
MYTH #1 --
You need to use a choke collar to leash train your dog.
I use a choke collars on my Dobermans but anybody who does so should
bear in mind that choke collars do exactly what they say, they cut off all your dog's air supply! Needless to say, it's a health hazard and you can do serious damage to your dog's
esophagus. So, if you use one, bear that in mind and don't use if for
training purposes.
MYTH #2 --
You need a prong (spike) collar to train "tough" dogs. Prong collars have spikes that jab into your poor dog's neck every time you jerk the leash. Most people do NOT need to discipline their dogs this way! Only experienced, trained dog professionals should be using prong collars and only for special
situations. The average dog owner should NEVER be advised to use these collars!
MYTH #3 --
You need an electronic shock collar to stop your dog's barking. It's EASY to stop a dog's barking without using something as inhumane as SHOCKING!
Studies show that these shock collars only work a small percentage of the time anyway, and the dog just learns to be afraid of the collar!
MYTH #4 --
You need to dominate your dog by using physical force (smacking, hitting, choking).
Your dog needs to view you as his "pack leader". But you don't earn this respect by beating your
dog. In the wild, a pack leader doesn't suddenly overreact and beat its pack members into the ground.
A pack leader is calm, consistent and fair. So hitting your dog won't win his respect.
It will just make it
fearful of you!
Never hit your puppy, especially in the face or head. Besides being cruel,
this will cause “hand shyness” and it will “duck” when approached.
Ultimately this may also cause the puppy to refuse to have his mouth
examined.
MYTH #5 -- You need to YELL at your dog, so it perceives you as tough. To a dog, yelling sounds like frantic barking, which confirms in their mind that something is wrong. A good trainer can easily control their dog with a quiet whisper and hand signals. Although at times an increase in volume will let your dog know you are serious if he is prone to ignoring your commands.
Always keep in mind that the safety of your puppy comes before meeting any training needs. For example, don’t hold balls, food or other tempting items up in the air so the puppy will jump up to get it. This looks cute, but on landing, the puppy may injure his shoulders, knees or rear legs. Also, as a matter of safety, never permit your puppy to climb down stairs.
If you are having serious problems in training your dog or puppy, the best way to solve your dog behavior issues to enroll your dog or puppy in a dog obedience school. Although training your own dog will be more cost effective, sometimes it’s inevitable that you need to enlist the help of trained professionals. Especially if you are a first time dog owner.
There
are some excellent dog-training schools in the country, where a dog can be
superbly trained. Unfortunately, in many cases, the owner does not know
how to manage his trained dog and, when the dog comes home, he soon senses
that his owner does not know what is required of him. In a few days the
dog is almost unmanageable again. It is therefore much better for
the dog and his owner to be trained at a local dog-training club. These
clubs are found all over the country, and your local Kennel Club will
always give the names of the nearest ones in a given area. It is best for
the dog to start his lessons when he is about six months old. There is a
great deal more pleasure in having trained one’s own dog.
GENERAL
TRAINING
Training
can start at the age of about twelve weeks. The Doberman’s first lessons
must be getting used to having a collar round his neck. Use a very light
one and put it on just before a meal, and he will then quickly forget that
it is there.
The
best equipment for training puppies is a four to six foot webbed leash or
plain strong leather one. A chain or nylon slip-collar is absolutely
essential. Choose one according to the size of the dog. At each end there
is a large metal ring. It is imperative to learn to put the chain
slip-collar on correctly. First, slip the chain through one ring; this
forms the collar. Place the dog on your left side and slip the collar over
the head so that the pull on the chain goes from left to right. This
enables the collar to be tightened when the leash is pulled, and the
collar loosens the moment the pressure on the leash is stopped. If the dog
is on the right-hand side of the handler, the collar like this will be
incorrect. The leash must be slack all the time, except when the dog is
being corrected.
The
next stage is to put a leash on to a chain slip-collar just before a meal.
Allow it first to hang a little so that the Puppy gets used to the extra
weight, and then gently pick the leash up. The dog must be on the
handler’s left-hand side. The leash should be held in the right hand,
hanging in a slack loop. All corrections are made by a quick firm jerk
with the right hand. When starting to walk, always start off with the left
foot. Take the puppy to an area it has never been in before. Pull the
leash fairly sharply but gently, and immediately let it go loose again.
Keeping the puppy walking to heel, say “Heel!” as you go in a firm
tone. An excellent method to prevent the dog walking in front of you is to
turn completely around and walk in the opposite direction, giving a sharp
jerk on the leash and commanding the dog to “Heel”. As soon as the
puppy is walking to heel correctly, change the tone of voice and say
“Good boy!”
Some
puppies are very quick at learning about walking on a leash and within a
few minutes they will be trained, while others can be little devils; but
patience is all that is required, with plenty of praise and reward. Jerk
the leash and walk, jerk again and walk, and continue until you have got
the puppy doing what you want. Never stop until he has done what is
required. Then praise him. Spend ten minutes on the training each day. But
a word of warning: you may have trained a puppy very quickly, but never
forget that without constant practice it can also forget extremely
quickly. Once it has learned, though, it will never take long to train him
again.
When your puppy is about 6 months old it’ll be ready to start serious
training. Please check into an obedience class, not only will you and your
dog benefit from being trained properly but you will also meet a lot of
fun dog people. These dogs are intelligent and do well in obedience
training.
The
training of any large breed of dog is really important, as the enjoyment
of owning a beautiful trained dog is well worth the initial effort. Being
dragged along by an untrained dog is in the extreme unpleasant, very
tiring and perhaps making the owner look the fool.
GROWLING
Growling should not be permitted and the Doberman must be made to understand this
in no uncertain terms. From earliest puppyhood the dog must not be
allowed to become possessive of its bed, blanket or a toy. If it has a
bone never try to take it away from him, as this is not fair. It is a
different matter when he growls and barks at the arrival of strangers.
BARKING
Barking is often triggered by the doorbell or knocker, so try to accustom your puppy to hearing this right from the start. Go outside, ring the bell and walk in, but ignore the puppy until it is quiet. Ask friends and family members to do the same. You can also ask someone with a key to ring the bell and then wait for a couple of minutes before they come in. In the meantime, give the puppy a chew or treat on his bed. This will teach him to associate the doorbell with going to his bed for a reward.
SITTING
ON CHAIRS
It
is far better not to allow a large dog like a Doberman to sit on chairs.
He should be provided with his own bed or basket and it should be trained
that when its owner shouts “Bed!” it
must get up and go to its
own bed
from wherever it
is in the house or garden. To begin with it
will have to
be trained that it is a sin to sit on his master’s sofas and chairs. Say
“No!” or “Get off!” in a harsh voice. The puppy will soon learn
that it
is only allowed to sit or lie on its
own bed. On no account should
a dog be permitted to sit on chairs sometimes and not at other times, as
this is utterly confusing.
CHASING
CARS
Chasing vehicles is an extremely dangerous habit which should be anticipated by
training a puppy to beware of cars. This requires the co-operation of
someone else to drive the car. Walking with the dog on the leash, arrange
for the car to go past and, as it does, the horn should be sounded
loudly and sharply. At the same moment the handler should pull the dog
sharply to one side with a jerk. Repeat the lesson a number of times and
the dog will soon learn to be respectful of all passing traffic.
SHOW
TRAINING
As
soon as a young puppy can stand really upright and walk about on his own
he can be trained to stand in a show pose. This can be done on a table, on
a non-slippery surface, for the convenience of the handler. But when it is
older a low table of about 18 inches off the ground makes a good platform.
When it is small place it on the table so that its forelegs remain
parallel to each other and the paws touch the table at the same time, and
then slowly drop its hind feet into the correct position.
To
correct its stance, start by placing the far foreleg in the desired
position and then slide the hand over the dog without losing contact,
until the near side foreleg can also be placed in the correct position,
should this be necessary. Whether it is or not, it is wise to touch the
leg and pretend to put it in position even if it is in the same place, so
that the puppy gets the idea of being touched and his legs being moved
about. Then, slowly but firmly, slide the hand across the top of the back
until it reaches the hindquarters. Then firmly place the rear legs in the
positions desired. Again, as with the forelegs, move them about so that
the dog becomes accustomed to this procedure.
As
soon as the dog is in the correct position let it know that it has done
well and pat it and talk to it while it remains in this pose. At first it is bound to wonder about the strange antic
its handler has now thought
of, and will more than likely try and take a flying leap off the table.
But again it can be soothed and talked to quietly, and while it is still
small it can be picked up bodily and placed back in the correct position. Dobermans have such a proud bearing that to train them for a
show stance is extraordinarily easy.
As
soon as the puppy has learned the stance and what is expected of it and
how long it has to remain still, then get a member of the family to go
over him as a judge would, opening its mouth, and running a hand over its body. The lessons must always be short and, as
it becomes more accustomed
to this handling, get a stranger who is good with dogs to pretend that he
is a judge. A little early and careful training will pay remarkable dividends
for years to come in the show ring. Eventually the whole procedure can be
repeated on the ground as in a normal show.
There
is one other point, which is perhaps worth mentioning, and that is the
Doberman’s movement. All dogs will move more easily at one speed than at
any other, so that it is important for the handler to find out which speed
shows up his dog to the greatest advantage. As he is moving the dog
itself, this is difficult to ascertain, and so it is better to get a
knowledgeable person to watch the handler move the dog at various speeds,
and when the correct one becomes obvious the handler must remember that
his particular speed is for this particular dog. It is strange indeed how
such small points may make the difference between winning and losing. The
temperament of both the handler and the Doberman can be equally affected.
A nervous handler will pass this on to his Doberman who will react
accordingly; whereas a confident handler, who knows his dog should win,
will transmit this feeling to his dog, and win they will.
THE
BOISTEROUS STAGE
Doberman puppies go through a boisterous stage but luckily this stage does not last long. Give it its own toys and never tease the puppy when it is playing. When bringing a puppy into a new home which has an older family dog, care must be taken to introduce them to each other carefully and slowly. The old dog is bound to feel a little jealous and resentful of the bouncing newcomer, and unless extreme tact and care are used the newcomer could be seriously injured or frightened.
JUMPING UP
This often occurs because puppies are so little that people can’t be bothered to bend down and greet them. Instead, they encourage the puppy to stand on his back legs and jump up towards them. It’s then not fair to punish
it
for this as it
grows bigger, but you will need to retrain
it.
Ask your family and friends to ignore the puppy until it
is calm and not jumping up. Train it
by putting it
on a lead and asking someone it
knows and likes to approach you. Have a treat in your hand and when the puppy jumps up, ask your helper to stand still. Put the puppy in a sit and give
it
the treat. Ask your assistant to approach again - only give the puppy a treat when
it
is sitting calmly and allowing the helper to greet him. Repeat this with everyone you meet until it becomes second nature to your pet.
CHASING AND BITING
Young children are naturally loud, fun and love to play - pretty much like your puppy! However, you shouldn’t encourage your puppy to play chasing games with them: instead give them some different training games to play, such as retrieving or hunting for a toy. Never allow play biting. If this occurs, tell your child to stop the game immediately. Your puppy will soon get the message that biting ends the play session.
MEDICAL CONSIDERATIONS
Start recognizing your puppy’s normal behavior as soon as you get it. Then you will know when all is not well. Note any unusual behavior, altered appetite or demeanor, distressed whining, increased or decreased thirst, straining on defecation or urination, vomiting or diarrhea. You will then be able to inform your vet of the symptoms.
Puppies with digestive upsets can soon become dehydrated, as the body loses moisture and essential salts and sugars (electrolytes), so it is imperative they are seen by a vet within a couple of hours if an ailment has not cleared up. If the condition worsens during this time, consult a vet sooner.
Doberman
puppies may develop violent diarrhea for no apparent reason. Parasites,
poisoning, infection, excitement, exercise, heat, overfeeding change of
diet or diet deficiency, raw meat (especially liver), and lactose in cows
milk, are among the more frequent causes. The younger the dog is, the more
easily affected it will be.
While
the problem has to be remedied at the source, the initial requirement is
to treat the symptom. Apart from being messy to give, Kaopectate is
generally available in an emergency. “Pet Pectillin,” however, usually
provides the most prompt relief.
Specialized
pet intestinal diets are available at most pet centers and may also help
stabilize minor gastric disorders. Never give laxatives to a dog with
diarrhea. Unless you are reasonably sure that the diarrhea does not stem
from one of the more serious causes, consult your veterinarian.
Your puppy will have received his first puppy shots before you take him home. Please consult your vet for a schedule of additional puppy shots and a rabies shot at the age of 4 months. Also consult with your vet on heartworm preventatives. The vet can explain the different types available to suit your needs.
A healthy Doberman body should look as if it is in proportion. You should be able to feel your dog’s ribs and not see visible folds of fat. If he is too fat, you will not be able to see his waist.
Studies show that more dogs than ever are classed as overweight. Some of this is attributed to their owners feeding
them too much of the wrong kind of food. Other demands on an owners’ time
may also make difficult for them to exercise their dogs adequately. A combination of exercise and altered eating habits (not one or other on its own) is the most effective way to achieve and maintain weight loss.
If you take your dog for an annual check-up, his weight will be assessed and your vet can tell you if he is piling on the pounds.
If this is the case, it is definitely not a good situation but it can be remedied.
Many veterinarians run weight-management clinics for pets. If you prefer to work alone,
however, here are few dieting guidelines you should try to follow:
1. Avoid giving food treats as rewards, as these can soon build up
extra calories. Use verbal praise, toys and play instead.
2. Give him more exercise. Relying on food deprivation will make your dog very unhappy.
3. Look for food that is high in fiber and low in fat. Your vet can prescribe canine diet food if necessary.
4. Be realistic about how much weight you expect your dog to lose. As with humans, a slow and steady weight loss is better than a rapid one.
5. Don’t try fad dog diets. They are nutritionally unbalanced and will deprive your pet of the essential vitamins and minerals it needs for optimal health.
6. Don’t forget that your dog may slow down and exercise less as he grows older, so you will need to make adjustments to his caloric intake.
FEEDING
REQUIREMENTS
When feeding your puppy, use two weighted bowls, one for food and one for
water. Weighted bowls are best as the puppy cannot tip or spill its
contents, As your puppy grows raise is food and water bowls so the dog can
eat in a more level and natural posture. Your puppy needs a high protein
and high fat content for at least his first year. A good feed is important
while the dog is developing tone and muscle. You can change to a lower
protein and fat content when he’s done growing.
In
addition to an unspecified amount of carbohydrate, dog food should contain
not less than 15% fat and 20% protein, together with the correct balance
of the following essential vitamins and minerals for maintaining a normal
healthy puppy. Vitamins: A, D, E, K, B12, Thiamine, Riboflavin,
Pyridoxine, Pantothenic Acid, Niacin, Choline and Ascorbic Acid. Minerals:
Calcium, Phosphorous, Iron, Copper, Potassium, Iodine, Magnesium, Sodium,
Manganese, Cobalt and Zinc.
Dog foods come in all manner of flavors and textures, even ‘gourmet’ varieties. However, this is mainly to appeal to owners rather than their pets. Unlike us, dogs do not get bored with eating the same thing on daily basis, so it is not necessary to change your pet’s diet unless he fails to thrive on it. Changing the variety often can produce a fussy
eater. If he’s eating up and seems fit and healthy, it’s safer to continue feeding the same food.
Commercial
dog food companies concentrate heavily on owner-appeal. Numerous ads draw
a positive resemblance between certain products and the food that you
might put on your own table, such as beef or hamburger, thus making it
appear more appetizing. That “good red meat” look can be created by
the addition of nitrate. Convenience is also a strong selling point.
However, you must be willing to accept some degree of inconvenience when
selecting the diet. A
high percentage of young dogs are undernourished. This does not
necessarily mean that they are underfed, although it is highly probable.
When figuring out your puppy’s dietary requirement, remember that
extreme cold, increased activity or physiological stress could increase
this requirement by as much as 200%. As dogs grow older and less active,
these needs also decline.
Although it may be cute if your puppy growls and puts his hackles up when you approach his food bowl, it definitely won’t be if he’s still doing this as an adult and you are too afraid to go near him. Some owners are too scared even to be in the same room as their dog while he’s eating.
If your puppy exhibits this kind of behavior, take the following steps:
Put a small amount of food in his dish. If you use biscuits and wet
food, put the biscuits in first.
When he is eating, approach him and spoon a little wet food on top.
Keep repeating this until the meal is finished.
Your puppy should soon get the message that you approaching the dish
means more food going into it, and that you are not intending to steal
his meal!
The
size of Doberman puppies varies, with males generally being larger than
the females. Adult
males average 27 inches and the females about 25˝ inches. Their average weights
are approximately 65—75 pounds, although some Dobermans weigh more than 90
lbs. As a rough guide, puppies usually weigh between about 8 and 16 oz. at
birth. However, the birth weight seldom bears any relation to the ultimate
size of the dog. The females are generally heavier than the males until
the age of five weeks. The following is a rough guide to the average
weight of male and female puppies:
At
one week the females weigh 1 pound 6 ounces and the males 1 pound 5
ounces.
At
two weeks the females weigh 2 pounds 9 ounces and the males 2 pounds 7
ounces.
At
three weeks the females weigh 3 pounds 6 ounces. and the males 3 pounds 4
ounces.
At
four weeks the females weigh 4 pounds 12 ounces and the males 4 pounds 8
ounces.
At
six weeks males take over and are about 2 ounces heavier than the females.
Males then weigh about 8 pounds 4 ounces and the females weigh 8 pounds 2
ounces.
At
eight weeks of age the difference is often as much as half a pound, males
usually weighing about 12˝ pounds and females about 12 pounds.
At
twelve months Dobermans are nearly fully grown but they will fill out
after that age.
The
older dog puts on weight in bone, even if he does not actually become
fatter. Females usually have their first season at seven months, although
some come in season earlier and some later. A female should not he mated
before her second season. By that age she should be fully developed and
mentally mature enough to cope with a large litter.
EXERCISE
Never let your puppy exercise or play on a slippery surface. This includes
kitchen tile and linoleum. A puppy continually running or struggling to
get up on slippery surfaces will almost certainly become cow hocked where
the back feet are forced outward and the knees inward as the puppy tries
to gain footing. If you have a problem with the surface, buy some scatter
rugs with firm backing so the puppy won’t side.
A
young Doberman puppy of four months should be taken for short walks, so
that it may become quickly accustomed to a collar and a leash. A suitable
nylon or chain slip-collar is really essential for training. At six months
a puppy requires about three-quarters of an hour’s mixed exercise, both
roadwork and off the leash in a field. A game with a ball gives the dog
good exercise and saves the owner extra effort! Remember that all
Dobermans are apt to be headstrong with regards to following a trail. So
keep the dog away from all roads when it
is off a leash until it is
absolutely certain that it
is under complete control.
A
Doberman is a dog of habit and it will remain content provided that it is
given its expected daily exercise. In other words, it will be happier with
a set amount of exercise daily rather than a ten-mile hike on Sundays and
nothing during the week.
The
Doberman puppy, like all young animals, requires plenty of rest
interspersed with playful exercise and not too much excitement, If it is
kept in a kennel, it may not require artificial heat provided that the
kennel is dry and draft proof. If the Doberman is a housedog, it must
not be allowed to get too near the heat, as extremes of temperature are
dangerous owing to the likelihood of catching a chill. When it is in the
yard, it should have some protection from the sun and also from rain. If
it gets wet it must be dried thoroughly, especially its feet and
underbelly.
ACCIDENTS
A problem, which occurs in most every household, where there are young dogs, is that of the accident on the carpet. The urine of a dog stains a carpet very easily, and the smell of stale urine is most offensive. The most effective way to combat this is to keep a commercially available stain remover handy.
If it has to be left alone for a time, it is probably safest to place its bed in the utility room well out of a draft. It will enjoy a tasty chew bone beside it and, if possible, give it a small blanket or a garment with your scent on it. This it will learn to love, and it will not feel so lonely when it is left alone in the future. The loud ticking of a clock can be comforting and so is a radio played quietly. See that it has a piece of newspaper lined with some strong plastic, where it can relieve himself if necessary. Remember its puddles can be very large and very frequent
TEETH
Get your puppy used to having its teeth examined gent1y. Encourage other
people to “go over”
its mouth also. If you make a mouth examination
part of his daily routine, it won’t be a traumatic experience when
someone handles
its teeth at the vets or in a show ring.
Have some rawhide bones and or chew sticks on hand. Pups chew when cutting teeth, these will aid in keeping the puppy off the furniture. Rubber latex toys with the squeaker removed or not are also fine. Puppies chew right through plastic ones and can become sick if they eat the plastic. Latex is much more durable. Positively no stuffed toys. Puppies eat, suck and chew the dye treated eyes, noses and the fur on stuffed toys. When they ingest such materials, they can get sick and or poisoned.
Dobermans,
like most large dogs, are renowned for excellent teeth. The first Doberman
teeth, of which there are twenty-eight, begin to make their appearance
when the puppy is about three weeks old. These teeth are known as the milk
teeth and they normally come through the gums by the age of six
weeks. They are usually regular and in the correct scissor-bite position.
These milk teeth have roots which gradually become absorbed and they
then fall out. The milk teeth generally start to come out normally and easily between
four and four and a half months of age. These are followed by the permanent
teeth, which usually begin to appear between the twelfth and sixteenth
week, and can be very painful when they are coming through the gums. The permanent teeth are
generally all
through by the age of eight months. Some
Dobermans may be slower and not get their second teeth until a month
later. The fact that the milk teeth are in the correct position does not
necessarily mean that the second teeth will be correct. A note of caution;
if something hard
is not specifically provided for teething, they will find something
themselves and it
may be something of value to their owner. If the eyeteeth are slow in
coming out, try to get them out by allowing the puppy to play with a piece
of sacking, or suitable tug-toys. Occasionally, a puppy may require
assistance in shedding its eyeteeth. They can be removed with tweezers as
soon as they are loose.
If
a dog has had distemper while a puppy, its teeth may become mottled, and
it often loses those earlier than normal. Curiously enough, dogs that
suffer from cavities seldom have sore gums, while dogs that suffer from
sore gums seldom have cavities. Dobermans, like all dogs, hate having
their teeth attended to. A good diet with plenty of hard things to chew
helps to prevent tartar. Tartar should be removed as it forms. With a
special instrument, give a sharp pull just above the growth of tartar and
the tartar should come away. Care must be taken not to dislodge an old
tooth in the process. A tooth covered with tartar is preferable to no
tooth. Regular brushing with vinegar and water keeps the teeth clean.
HANDLING
PUPPIES
Puppies
should be accustomed to being handled and loved from birth. As soon as
they are exactly three weeks old they should be given a particular amount
of attention during the following week, as love at this time will affect
them all their lives. The breeder should have control of the puppy during
this period and must be aware of this requirement. It is most interesting to note that twenty day old
puppies are hardly aware of their surroundings, with only warmth, hunger
and sleep mattering to them. Whereas on the twenty first day they become
aware of their surroundings, people and other animals, etc. It is
almost as if they have been hatched from an egg on day 21. The fourth week will form
the dog’s basic character. Playing must be done quietly and gently. Much praise and encouragement
should be given at all times.
A puppy should gradually become accustomed to as many situations and noises as
possible. He should also not resent being touched by strangers and must
become accustomed to sudden noises.
CRATE
TRAINING
Do yourself a favor and buy your puppy a crate to save yourself trauma
whenever the puppy is not under your direct control. You may put your
puppy in a crate for sleeping, or whenever you are not watching it, which
is an ideal place to keep him out of trouble. Try not to put yourself in
situations where you have to yell at the puppy because it really doesn’t
understand very much at this age. This way the puppy can be happy and well
adjusted. For the first 4 months the puppy sleeps about l5 to 17 hours a
day. The crate will save a lot of wear end tear on everyone. Do not put
food and water in the crate, only his toys and bones.
This
type of training is useful for those planning to travel with their dog,
whether going to dog shows or simply while on vacation. It is always a
good idea to have your Doberman accustomed to being crated. While there
are several good reasons for doing this, possibly the most important one
is for its own safety.
Contrary
to what the novice may feel about confining his pet in a small cage or
box, most dogs like having their own crate to hide away in. If it is left
on the floor with the door open, they will often sleep in it, in
preference to anywhere else. The crate also offers a sense of security
when your pet is taken to a strange place, such as a motel, and a greater
degree of safety in a moving vehicle.
Start
confining the puppy to his crate for a short period of time every day,
ideally after the puppy has been playing and is ready for sleep.
Initially, he may cry for a little while, but that will soon wear off, and
in no time at all, your puppy will go into his crate quite happily.
Once
the puppy is quite secure in his crate, put the crate in your vehicle and
let the puppy stay in it for about an hour every day for a week or so.
Then, when he appears to have settled down, take him for a short drive. By
using this method, you can expect to make your dog a seasoned traveler in
no time at all.
GENERAL
DOBERMAN CARE
Dobermans
are an extremely hardy breed. Provided that they are well looked after,
they do not normally require much veterinary care. They are easy to
maintain in good condition with little time spent on special care. Good
feeding, adequate shelter and at least two to three miles exercise a day
are essential.
BATHING
Bathing, except to rid the dog from a tick/flea infestation and such, is seldom necessary if the dog is kept well brushed.
COAT
Dobermans
shed during a change of seasons, usually in the spring and autumn. When this happens it is
important to brush the hair right down to the roots the way the hair
grows, so that the skin is stimulated and left clear and clean and free of
dry skin or dandruff.
BRUSHING
The
Doberman can be given a good vigorous brushing daily and grooming once a
week; this is normally found to be quite adequate. The most suitable
brushes are either a Mason and Pearson or a curved Addis. The brushing
should be followed by a little hand massage to the skin to keep it loose
and supple. If the coat looks dry spray on a coat groom dressing. A
good sheen will be obtained if the coat is finally rubbed over with a silk
handkerchief or a velvet pad. If there are any bald patches caused by
pressure at the elbows, or elsewhere, these can be gently massaged with a
little benzyl benzoate emulsion, which keeps the skin soft and enables the
hair to grow through quickly.
EYES
A
Doberman’s eyes should only be bathed in normal saline or weak boric
acid lotion when absolutely necessary. If the hair around the eyes becomes
clogged, a little dry boric acid powder rubbed over the area will remove
the stain and crust. Eye rims can then be rubbed around gently with a
little cotton moistened with olive oil. If the eyes should ever become
inflamed, consult your vet immediately
EARS
Like all canines, Dobermans are susceptible to ear troubles. However, provided they are attended to regularly and a few precautions are taken, the ears should not be a source of concern. On occasional the inside of the ears may become dirty and clogged. In this case the ears require cleaning. It is best to have two people for this, one to hold the dog and the other to clean the ear out with a piece of cotton. Pull the ear straight up and twist the cotton into the ear canal, but in no case dig down farther than you can see. Keep ears clean and free from wax and never allow them to become hard and crusty around the edges. This is apt to happen in the summer months if they are neglected.
TICKS
To
remove a single tick, attach a pair of forceps or tweezers, over the site
where the tick’s head is buried, as close to the dog’s skin as
possible. Wait for a few moments and withdraw the tick and dispose of it.
Ticks should not he handled with bare hands. In the event of an
infestation, the dog must be dipped in a special solution. Soak the dog in
the dip solution and allow it to stand for five minutes before towel
drying. Take special care none of the solution goes into the dog’s eyes.
FLEAS
Fleas
have no redeeming features. Their only function is to create discomfort.
Unfortunately, their presence is often accepted as the inevitable
consequence of owning a pet. In addition to being a voracious feeder, the
flea acts as a host to other parasites, such as tapeworms, roundworms, and
heartworms. While a severe infestation might cause anemia, even a
single flea is capable of creating parasitical dermatitis due to an
irritant in its saliva. This in turn may produce other allergic reactions.
Check frequently for fleas and use readily available medications and
preparations to eliminate them.
NAILS
Keep your puppy’s nails cut short. Long, nails will ruin the dog’s feet. With puppies, you may have to cut or file them every week. Ask the vet how to do this. Walking the puppy on concrete once a day may help keep the nails in good condition. Occasionally, dewclaws may have been left on and these must not be forgotten when cutting the nails, as they can grow into a complete circle and pierce the skin if they are neglected.
While adult Dobermans
do not require their nails to be cut or filed frequently if their feet are
well knuckled, their nails should be checked at least once a month. Some
Doberman nails grow faster than others but many will wear their nails down
themselves and keep them trim. If they are permitted to grow too long,
they can prevent the dogs from walking and running in comfort. On the
other hand, the nails should never be cut so short that they stick up.
The
best method is to prevent dogs from seeing the nails actually being cut or
filed. It takes two people to cut or file the nails: one to hold the dog
and distract his attention with a bone or biscuit, talking to him all the
time and shielding his face, and the other actually to cut or file the
nails. Use good nail-clippers, or a good file, and cut or file the nails
at the end of the cuticle. The cuticle can be seen easily in dogs with
light-colored nails, but sometimes it can be very difficult to see where
to cut with black-nailed dogs.
When
dogs are tense, their nails protrude and look longer than they normally
do, so great care must be taken not to cut them too short. Never cut the
quick, as this can be very painful for the dog. Should the quick
accidentally be cut, it will bleed profusely. Immediately apply some
powdered potassium permanganate, which should be kept at hand as a
precaution when nails are being cut. This will form a crust and will
prevent the nails from bleeding.
SLEEPING
ARRANGEMENTS
Where
the Doberman is to sleep is often a problem for the new owner. If the
Doberman has his way, it will probably sleep on your bed or in a box by
your bed or in an old armchair. These are not bad choices if it is your one and
only pet. But show, working and guard dogs are best kept in dry,
draft-proof sleeping quarters. However, they should also have time in the
house with human companionship during the day.
DOG RUN
It
is not generally wise to allow a Doberman to run free. A minimum of a
five-foot chain-link fence is generally adequate; particularly one without
a top rail, as then there is nothing for the dog to aim at if he tries to
jump over the top.
A
run should not be less than 10 feet by 20 feet, but 20 feet by 40 feet is
better. Part of the run should be under cover in case of rain or too hot a
sun. The gate must be secured with a strong latch. A cement floor is the
easiest to keep clean, although it is apt to harbor worm eggs, and in wet
weather it is always damp. Cement blocks are better as they dry quickly,
but they are more difficult to clean. Once a year they should he
disinfected with powdered lime and the run left empty for a week.
A
doghouse should be large and high enough for the dog and to be easily
cleaned. A kennel 4 feet by 6 feet, with the woodwork protected with sheet
metal, is an excellent investment. The bed should be 3 feet by 4 feet, and
raised at least 6 inches off the ground to avoid drafts, and the sides
should be 12—18 inches high. The bedding should consist of a sack
containing a clean filling. Dobermans require something reasonably soft to
lie on as, owing to their weight, the pressure areas may become bald,
particularly the elbows and hocks.
OUTDOOR KENNELS
If
the Doberman is to live outside, see that his quarters are dry and
draft-proof. An excellent sleeping box for an adult dog is one which is
made of wood, the dimensions of which should be 3 feet by 4 feet and 18
inches high, and the box should be raised off the ground about 6 inches. A
small sleeping box to fit the puppy can be placed inside this main box
while the puppy is small and changed from time to time to a larger box
until he is fully grown. If the bed just fits the puppy he will learn not
to soil his sleeping quarters. Clean straw or cedar shavings makes
excellent bedding. If the floor is made of concrete it, can be covered with
sawdust, which is easy to sweep up, or a thick newspaper can be put down
where he is to relieve himself. Some puppies may take as long as a week
before they settle down, but most of them settle in much more quickly.